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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.